Fukumen Hanaki

Along Yamate-dori, a walk from Higashi-Nakano Station leads to Fukumen Hanaki, run by a chef who trained at Fukumen Tomo in Jimbocho, a shop in the Ichijo-ryu Ganko Ramen tradition. The bowl arrives filled to the brim with a robust broth that layers chicken and pork stock with dried ingredients, including niboshi dried sardines and other fish flakes. A sharply defined soy seasoning gives it a lively finish. The noodles are fine, yellow-tinged and curly, cooked slightly firm; their clean bite carries the broth’s savoury flavour.

Wontons with a choice of fillings, and carefully prepared chashu

The house-made wontons are well worth noticing: each is generously packed with meat filling. With wonton dishes, diners can choose from several flavours. Ginger brings a refreshing lift, while aonori seaweed and lotus root combine a seaside aroma with a crisp root-vegetable texture. Squid with shiso and chrysanthemum greens are among the other fillings available on some days. The chashu also offers contrasts in texture and flavour, from tender braised pork belly to aromatic, smoke-scented pork cooked over a hanging grill.

A generous house special and broths that vary by day

For a more lavish bowl, the house special ramen comes topped with wontons, chashu and a seasoned egg. Alongside the standard soy ramen, limited broths made with seafood or other ingredients are sometimes served, particularly at weekends, so the flavours on offer can vary by day. The calm interior has around 6 counter seats, and orders are paid for in cash in advance at the ticket machine beside the entrance. The focus is firmly on the broth, noodles and individual toppings, each prepared with care.